Festivals and Miners

Oruro is Bolivia´s festival capital. We are pre- Carnival mood here in Bolivia. Carnival happens on February 2nd and Bolivia goes crazy. All day and night in the major cities (and some of the minor cities) - groups of people get dressed in amazing devil and other traditional costumbes and dance through the streets. 15-18 hours of a proccesion. With huge walking bands of trombone, trumpet and drum players in front and behind the dancers. Its incredible. Ororo had a pre-run while I was there and it was the most INCREDIBLE cultural event I have seen.

There must have been 50,000 people participating in a 17 hour long proccesion, dancing and playing up a long four hour route to the cities church. At the end of their four hour dance the group would go into the church , get down on their knees and crawl for 10 minutes to get to the front of the church and hear from a Catholic priest. As most instrument players and dancers had been drinking beer solidly through their sun drenched and rain drenched dance fest, they were mostly quite pissed! And tired! And eating coca leaves to stay upright! Amazing! All in ´gods church!´ Quite, quite incredible.

There was one group that commemorated those who lost their lives in the fight against the Spanish. There was a slow moving indigenous group that had two big indigeous banners flying in the air. Beautiful. There was a group of men and women who had used these instruments that were dead amarillos, stuffed with wood to give them inner strength, and stuck on a winding peice of wood. The dancers would swing these dead amarillos around, and a constant beat would come out. Incredible!

I was in awe! Now, as I am in Sucre, a richer city of the Media Luna, the right wing - there have been two mini pre Carnival festivals. One, a group of young people saying dont do drugs, drinking in excess. And no smoking. And use condoms. Pretty cool all up. Wasnt a straight out moralistic message, just not in excess. The state health department had a stall about AIDS and a big diagram on how to have safe sex. Great graphic pictures of penises and condoms. Good stuff! Havent seen anything like it in La Paz. The other little fest was young people going crazy dancing to trombones, trumpets down the main street. All very cool. Sucre´s mayor is pro Media Luna, but the department (state) governor is pro-Morales.

Bolivia, apart from going festival crazy is also experiencing horrid torrencial rains, bought on by La Nina effect. Thanks to global warming at least 5 people have died, hundreds of people are stranded and homeless. Evo Morales has told first world governments they have to cut greenhouse emissions, in response to Bush and co.´s "third world countries have to pull up their socks" for the world to solve the warming crisis.

With a Spanish speaking friend I went to visit a mining town, Huanuni, outside Oruro. We got in an visited the mine and talked to the workers about conditions pre-Morales and conditions now. Lovely!

The basic salary in Bolivia is 550 Bolivanos per month. That is $72 American . Miners receive 5000 bs per month minimum in top sections of the mines (less dangerous). Miners who work in the bottom, more dangerous part of the mine receive $15, 000 bs per month. In the mine we visited 3 people had died at work last year. The amount of miners who are dying is way down from when the mine was in a private, French company, hands.

As I am trying to learn more Spanish I will write a little in it about Che Guevara.

Cuando yo fui a eso pueblito cerca de Oruro yo vi una poster con fotos de Che Guevara a differente partes en su vida. Una foto fue de Che muerte. Muy triste. Pero le cosa bonito sobre eso poster fue el dicho en la fondo de eso poster. Eso es "Si avanzo me sigo. Si paro el empujón mí. Si vuelvo me mato" Creo que es muy hermoso.

Two years of Evo Morales, 500 years of colonialism

This is an article destined for Green Left Weekly.
http://www.greenleft.org.au/

Celebrations of Evo Morales´s two years of presidency took place here in La Paz on Tuesday 22nd January. In typical Bolivian style big rallies blocked the streets, fireworks rang through the air and workers and campesinos met to plan the next steps ahead for Bolivia ´s democratic, indigenous revolution.

The largest rally of the day : 10,000 – 15,000 workers - was led by the federation of Central Workers of Bolivia (COB). Demonstrating the differences that exist within workers within Bolivia, this rally was “against the Morales government”. COB, dominated by militant miners, is calling for the MAS government to provide a basic salary for all Bolivians. At the moment MAS is providing $26US per month to Bolivians over 60 – “Renta Dignidad” who have no fixed, regular income. This is an addition to the assistance provided through the program for school children. “Bono Juancito Pinto” is a $26US yearly cash grant to each child who goes to primary school. 1,321,812 children have benefited from this program.

Workers at the COB rally chanted loudly against Media Luna – the right-wing oligarchy – who - based in Santa Cruz, are calling for autonomy from the less gas rich west of Bolivia. COB has fought hard for the nationalization of the countries resources. Bolivia, historically rich in gold and silver, was mined almost dry by Spanish colonialists. During this prolonged robbery, noted an historian in 1831, Bolivia was like "a beggar seated on a throne of gold."

Under Morales 83% of gas and petrol resources have been nationalized. Within two years the state has received almost three and a half million US dollars from its program to take back the countries wealth. With this money from nationalizations, the government has provided Renta Dignidad and Bono Juancito Pinto.

An indigenous rally weaved its way past COBs rally into the centre of La Paz´s morning bustle. In contrast, the campesinos supported Morales and MAS. Two thousand campesinos from within the state of La Paz rallied, then met to talk about their collectives, production and the new constitution. Within two years – in a “Agrarian Revolution” the Morales leadership has transferred 10,000 hectares of idle land to poor, landless peasants based in collectives. The proposed constitution will solidify this move and outlaw any holdings over 10,000. Theoretically, idle land will be confiscated and handed over to poor campesinos.

In the late afternoon one thousand health and education workers rallied through La Paz taking many people to Plaza Murillo, where Congress meets. A chant “Evo, hermano, el pueblo estan contigo” (Evo, brother, the people are with you) kept in time with traditional drum rhythms. A national program to combat illiteracy, developed in Cuba, “Yes, I am able” has assisted 453,935 people in overcoming illiteracy. Assisted by Cuban doctors a program titled Universal Secure Health for all has attempted to provide free health care to all Bolivians. Mission Miracle, a program to eliminate blindness caused by malnutrition has helped 215,000 people with their sight.

Poverty is shockingly apparent in La Paz. Indigenous women and children sleep in the streets. Running water is a privilege. Houses half built, precariously withstanding rain and wind with sticks from trees to hold their half erect forms. To combat homelessness, the government implemented a Plan of Social and Secure Living which has built, modified and bought 9,000 homes in rural and urban areas. To generate more economic growth Morales outputted almost four million dollars to 2,754 individuals and collectives.

The day to celebrate Evo Morales´s second year anniversary as Bolivia´s first indigenous president ended with Morales giving a five hour speech detailing the last two years and charting the way ahead. Morales said he will accelerate the program of structural transformation and the “decolonization” of the State with the help of a National Commission for Change, which will out-rank the cabinet of ministers and will not necessarily be made up of Movement Toward Socialism (Movimiento al Socialismo, MAS) party activists. One of its first measures will be the reversion and expropriation of lands controlled by ranchers who enslave the indigenous of the Chaco region of Bolivia. Although it seems unbelievable, to speak with one of the indigenous in Chaco region, individuals one must ask permission from their boss.

Morales said in his speech “This revolution is a peaceful, democratic, cultural and indigenous one. The Bolivian people have taken up the challenge of decolonization and therefore foreign nations will never again be able to impose their will.

Meeting Evo Morales in the rain

There was a mass political fest here in La Paz yesterday to commemorate Morales s 2nd year as president. It was a grand 14 hours of militant mass movement mayhem which started at 10am with a rally of miners and finished with glimpsing Morales through freezing rain at 12pm.

The miners, and other workers, came from all over Bolivia to protest "against Morales and the MAS leadership" for a basic salary for all Bolivians. Morales and MAS have just introduced a "salario dignidad" which is for those 60 and over without a job. Its not much but it will help the poor of Bolivia heaps. Anyways the COB - Central Workers of Bolivia Federation (made up of these militant workers) thinks Morales is not moving fast enough. The rally was really big. 10,000 to 15,000 women and men. Lots of banners declaring which organisation they were from. And loud. Bit scary due to the fireworks going off all OVER the rally. There were a few that were very bomb like. The police drove by at one stage and it was great to see the miners give them heaps. Think the miners have come a crop of the cops before! Huh!

Morales said when he was inaugurated 2 years ago that he was placed into presidency by the social movements, was accountable to them and would take his lead from them. Needless to say, COB are very much independent from the MAS leadership and are playing an important role. I think, however, that overall the Morales leadership is moving as fast as it can within the constraints that they have given. 500 years of Spanish robbery and 100 or so of American cant be fixed over night.

Franz Chavez, journo here, was saying that while Morales and co have nationalised 83% of the gas here...it has been hard guareenteeing the payment from that gas nationalisation. He also said there is virtually NO tax against the rich here. Some companies pay tax here...but he was saying not all. Within this...its hard for MAS.

Then ran into a campesino rally of 2000 or so and went to their meeting which was all in Quechoa, an indigenous language. Then went to a COB meeting. Then ran into another rally led by the health and education department which was really great...chanting, music. The particiupants were friendly which was a bit of a change from the indigenous rally where I copped a bit of gringo bashing! I gave as good as I got "Soy contigo companeros. Soy activista de Australia". I am with you comrades - I am an activist from Australia. Participants at the health and education rally were very friendly with an older woman making me watch out for pickpokets and getting the correct change for me. Nice! And we danced to some funky drums while marching. Yah!

Then we hung outside the Congress, waved at Evo Morales s back as he went into to Congress to give a 6 hour address about the last two years. A radio transmitted the entire 6 hours to the 500 - 1000 of us that were there. It started to rain though which was a bit crap. A nearby cafe housed the refugees and had Morales on TV. Phew! There, we watched him. Was great. After he had finished we went outside to say hello. About 200 hardcore supporters were there , many lefty Argentinians! And out he came! Yah! and we waved, shouted and acted like teenagers at a rock concert. Then we yelled "Evo...Evo..." outside his bedroom (cant know that for sure:) window for an hour with others and went happily home! Yehup!

Great day. More on his speech soon.

Communist Party Bolivia

Dont seem to be in Morales ´s Party MAS. They had an anniversary fiesta of about 150 people. Small, cramped room, lots of people which was great. Speeches. Not many youth. The Bolivian Party is Moaist & Marxist Lenininst. Strangley they gave ´greetings´to China, as well as Cuba and Venezuela. They also put Argentina in the same progressive camp as Cuba, Venezuala, Nicuragua and Boliva. Which my Argentinian activist didnt appreciate. Great rendition on the Internationale in Spanish. Trying to add video footage. OK it aint working. Here is a photo instead.

New constitution sparks right-wing revolt

This first appeared in Green Left Weekly
http://www.greenleft.org.au/2008/736/38118

Bolivia: New constitution sparks right-wing revolt

Rachel Evans,
La Paz
18 January 2008

In December, after 16 months of wrangling, the elected delegates to the constituent assembly finally passed a draft constitution that will be put to a national referendum sometime before September.

A new constitution to re-found the country in order to include the indigenous majority subjected to 500 years of racial oppression has been a key demand of Bolivia’s powerful social movements. Evo Morales, Bolivia’s first indigenous president, was elected in December 2005 promising to convoke an assembly. The draft constitution recognises the rights of the indigenous peoples and guarantees state control over natural resources, among other progressive changes — including protection for gays and lesbians from discrimination.

After the constitution was passed, right-wing forces backed by the Bolivian oligarchy led a violent campaign that saw four people killed in Sucre. The main right-wing opposition party, Podemos, boycotted the final assembly session, allowing delegates from the Movement Towards Socialism (MAS) — Morales’ party — and allies to pass the draft with the two thirds majority required.

Opposition groups — backed by US imperialism — have refused to recognise the draft as legitimate. In retaliation the oligarchy based in the “media luna” (“half moon” — the four departments [states] in the east of the country home to much of Bolivia’s natural resources) have launched plans to hold referendums to declare “autonomy” from the Bolivian state.

Polarisation

The resource-rich eastern states are the main base of the racist white elite, with the predominantly indigenous, poorer, western departments being main base of support for Morales. The push for autonomy is a move aimed at securing control over gas reserves and land. In an article posted on the Bolivia Rising blog on December 30, Bengamin Dangel explained that the autonomy plans for the eastern department of Santa Cruz includes refusing to send two thirds of all oil and gas revenue to the central government. A separate proposed article on land reform for the new constitution will also be put to referendum and if passed will allow the government to redistrute large amounts of idle land to landless campesinos (peasants).

Key figures in the opposition are also major landowners. On December 15 the largest demonstrations of the autonomistas took place in Santa Cruz, rallying against land reform plans. With the government declaring the plans for autonomy illegal and the oligarchy arguing the same about the draft constitution, the country is potentially on a dangerous collision course. Last year saw a series of mobilisations and counter-mobilisations by opponents and supporters of the process of change, many of which were marred by violence.

The right-wing mobilised fascist gangs in Sucre to attempt to stop the constitutional assembly from proceeding. The private media, viciously anti-Morales, has run a racist campaign to undermine the government, including presenting Morales as a puppet of Venezuelan President Hugo Chavez. In an attempt to break the deadlock, Morales has announced referendums to be held sometime this year on whether or not he, his vice president and all nine department governors should stay in office.

Despite the destabilisation campaign, Morales remains popular with an approval rating of 56% according to Dangel.

Murderous oligarchy

However, indigenous blood is being more readily spilt by an increasingly frustrated opposition. The latest battle has centred on the government’s creation of the “Dignity Pension” for elderly Bolivians, who have never had access to a pension before — a significant gain for the 37% of Bolivians who live in extreme poverty. The new pension is being paid for by gas revenue redirected from the departments, and therefore is opposed by the “media luna” governments.

Morales has met with the eastern state leaders in pursuit of unity. A January 10 Inter Press Service article by Franz Chavez explained: “Morales opened the meeting with a report on his first two years in office, presenting results that would have been the envy of his predecessors. He pointed out that despite the social unrest … of 2007, GDP grew 4.2 percent … He also promised that public investment, which totalled 500 million dollars in 2005, would increase to [US[ 1.3 billion dollars in 2008.”

The initial meeting resolved to set up a commission, aiming to “reach agreements on issues like national unity, the cuts in the provincial governments’ budgets, the different kinds of autonomy, the defence of democracy, the state’s role in the economy, and the process of social change promoted by the government”.

Dignity and sovereignty

On January 14, an activist centre in my local area in La Paz held a meeting with two MAS leaders, Cynthia Cisneros and Juan Carlos, who explained the changes and argued for activists to promote them. Cisneros argued that capitalism is being challenged by the power of the social movements. She spoke about revolution being necessary while Bolivian children have to work on the streets to survive. According to the National Statistics Institute, 67% of Bolivia’s 9.6 million people live in poverty, and 37% in extreme poverty. Carlos argued that “the constitution is transitional. It is not socialist or communist but a liberal constitution. It is anti-colonial.” He explained that if the constitution is adopted, the poor will remain poor, and the main structures of domination will remain, however the new constitution can open the road to change.

Rallies pepper La Paz’s streets daily — demanding change in a range of areas. Radio programs are full of discussion about socialism, and news about the revolution in Venezuela is a major feature. As the mass movement of Bolivia’s oppressed gears up for the next steps in deepening democracy and social justice, we can be sure the right-wing will be on the offensive to prevent change.

El Alto - the poor of La Paz

Lefty journalist Franz Chavez took myself, an activist from France and a Bolivian who resided in the southern most state of the country to El Alto - Bolivia upper most city. Its really high up. 3500 kms. Rent is cheaper in El Alto so many of Bolivias poor (indigenous) live there and commute down the thin winding road to La Paz each day. A main road in El Alto took us down the city. The main road has pot holes and either side of this large thoroughfare lay small mechanic shops, some dirt futbol playing feilds, a marchet, small cafes. Buidlings were half constructed of this basic red brick material. Some of the buildings that looked as if work was still being done had tree branchs holding sections of the unfinished sections. Looked scary to work on.

Smaller roads off the main drag were half flooded with water, and mostly comprised of dirt. No car was able to go down there. El Alto is stronghold of MAS and people here know how to fight. The led the largest rally in Bolivia - 2 million people - against the dictatorship Sanchez...I think in 2003. They dont have enough clean water, their public schools need more funding and they need electricity. The Spanish, the US, the World Bank have bled Bolivia - rich in gold, silver, wool - dry. It is only now with the Morales government that the people are beginning to see some of the benefits of their countries natural wealth. This time around...the money is coming from gas.
Bolivia, whose economy has grown since Morales, is still Latin America´s second poorest country - second only to desperate Haiti. Taxes against companies exist here but are hard to enforce. Taxes against rich families are almost non-existant.

How the people in El Alto - and in Bolivia´s underresources countryside - will be able to have houses with running water, functional electricity, a properly funded school for their kids will be determined by the success of the struggle unfolding here against the countries oligarchy.

Photo file

http://www.flickr.com/photos/22889516@N07/