Interview with renowned Bolivian journalist

This is an jointly produced article destined for Green Left Weekly and Spanish left newspapers. On our left sits Franz Chavez.

Bolivian Journalist Reflects on Changes
Aranzazú Guevara and Rachel Evans

Franz Chavez is a noted Bolivian journalist. He studied, for a period, communication and sociology, at the National University of San Andres in La Paz and established a group that founded La Prensa and La Razon. These newspapers are two of Bolivia´s most widely read news sources. Chavez worked for 5 years in radio, at one stage, alongside former president Carlos Mesa. Chaves currently works for Inter Press Service as part of their Latin American bureau. Green Left Weekly´s Rachel Evans and Aranzazú Guevara from Corriente Praxis de Argentina, spoke to Franz Chavez in La Paz about the political process unfolding in Boliva.

"The conflict that is taking place in Bolivia is an unavoidable chapter, almost predictable to solve Bolivia´s social conflict. ´The conflict was had to happen, given the circumstances. There are many circumstances that coincide. Evo Morales was pressed by the circumstances but he didn’t believe that he could be a president. He is very humble. There was much weakness in the right wing in the lead up to Evo Morales´s election in December 2005, and that helped. The people had little money and lot of frustration. There was disenchantment with corruption, and how the state was not functioning" Chavez told Green Left Weekly.

"The parties in Bolivia ’s history were rotated in and out of power but there was no difference between them. The people didn’t see any results. So people started to revolt- also because of privatisation of water and gas. The Occidental region is rebellious and combative because of the cultural tradition and because they were always being forgotten – socially and politically. Evo was an isolated and small leader, yet people saw that he was a fighter and identified with his capacity to struggle. They identified with him because of his skin colour. He didn’t have a wide discourse, he only defended coca culture. He had support in the middle classes who were tired of the right-wing," Chavez said.

Since 1952 every party had taken advantage of the popular movements. "I think this current process of very deep change is similar to the 1952 uprising. The difference is that now we have the indigenous in power " noted Chavez. "The political system in Bolivia has moved from democracy to dictatorship, to democracy. The group that governs today in Bolivia doesn’t want that past. The forces to stop this pendulum between democracy and dictatorship are the indigenous and middle classes. Evo isn’t an expert in politics but he has a lot of common sense," remarked Chavez.

Background

"1952 was a revolutionary period. The working class were a much greater force than the campesinos who, conversely, are a greater force today than workers today. This was because working people had just come from the war of Chaco ." The war of Chaco, 1932–1935, was fought between Bolivia and Paraguay over control of a great part of the Gran Chaco region of South America . The region was incorrectly thought to be rich in oil. "As a result of the revolutionary process rose Víctor Paz Estenssoro – Bolivia´s president in 1952 – and his party the Nationalist Revolutionary Movement (MNR)" explained Chavez. "In the following years the working class fought against dictatorships. In 1982 there were elections and democracy. MNRI – the left wing of MNR – governed at this time. In 1985 there were a neo-liberal structural reforms. In the 1950s there was an ideological thought that was born between the working class and intellectuals. That ideological thought was Marxist. Now there is a greater participation of the popular sectors that has generated another kind of leadership. In this current political process, the thought is a mixture of indigenous, corporative, intellectual, middle class. Now its more complex, " Chavez said.

The working and lower classes in Bolivia

"The basic salary in Bolivia is 550 Bolivanos per month. That is $72 American " Chavez commented.The sectors that support Evo Morales are peasants, coca producers, the working class of the industrial factories , the mass of poor people who don’t have permanent employment – those in the informal sector, and the urban lower middle class . The Workers Confederation of Bolivia (COB) - the mainly miners workers federation – supports Evo but it now has a Trotskyist direction that questions the president a lot" noted Chavez. "COB was very important in the past. They had a great force of workers– in the past there were 27,000 miners in Bolivia and they were all in COB. Now their strength has declined. The reasons for this are historic. After 1985 the private sector grew as the value of tin started to rise. This was during the government of Sanchez de Losada. At this time mining cooperatives appeared. Co-operatives saw some miners operate as bosses, and exploitation of other workers developed. Take, today, for example, the town of Huanuni , there are no co-operatives in the mine. There are only unions. This is because this mine has been nationalised under Morales. Currently, there are 5000 miners working in Huanuni´s tin mine. In other parts of Bolivia there are mines that are not nationalised. They have co-operatives within them. The cooperatives have federations that are similar to trade unions. These federations support Evo Morales under the condition he does not nationalise their mines," explained Chavez. "I think that in El Alto – where a lot of working people live - there has not been enough help yet from the government" noted Chavez.

Indigenous and peasants in the countryside

"In the countryside you have two types of organisations - cultural and political, organised within a union. The organisation of peasants in a union is very similar to workers organisation but with a lot of culture. Both the cultural and political campesino groups are trying for more unity over demands. Women, culturally and historically, have kept the campesino home together and have not played the role as political protagonists. Overall, women and young people have not been very involved in this political process. However, now, campesino women are playing a more protagonist role and they have their own organisation, Bartolina Sisa" said Chavez.

"1952 is a point of reference because there was agrarian reform. The land was redistributed to campesinos individually. That was mostly in the Occidental region (the countries West) because in Oriental region there was not a lot of people. The Oriental region, the Media Luna, was forgotten. Consequently, in the Oriental region some land owners have land twice the size of the city of La Paz . If the reform had been in the sense of communal ownership it would have been better" commented Chavez."Now the government encourages the communal production. Since 2006 it has given people, original inhabitants, titles to their land. This is called Community Land of Origin. Morales is also creating new towns. The land around these towns can’t be sold nor divided. In the Oriental region this does not work because the capitalists still buy the land."

Commenting on a well known leader of the 2003 uprising against gas privatisation Chavez said ”Felipe Quispe, was the leader of Aymaras during the 2003 gas uprising. Now he no longer participates in this political process."

The role of Youth

"In the last few years private education has gained much importance. Not in quality but in the number of students who attend" explained Chavez. “The state university isn’t an important force like it has been in Bolivia ’s history" explained Chavez. "I think in 1995 the public university lost its ideology. In Sucre in November 2007 there were university students that confronted, and fought with people. In La Paz the university movement is almost null. MAS – Movement Towards Socialism – Morale’s party - does not have a youth group in the sense of constructing the party. But it has a group of youth that ´fights and goes to the trenches.´"

The role of the Military

"Now the military support Evo Morales. It was difficult. He had to eliminate two levels of generations. He retired them because they participated in Sanchez government and others. He did the same thing with the police.”

Corruption

”When Morales took power he inherited a system of the right-wing that lived on corruption”, commented Chavez. “Corruption lies mainly in banks, within the export industry and within agribusiness. The corruption Morales inherited wasn’t very explicit but the system is complex because it is very important to generate business - to the same economic and political groups that were conducting business before Morales. Now the problem is not solved. It has continued, but in different ways. It has also effected MAS – and the leaders of MAS. They have sold state jobs to friends and contacts. The judicial system – the courts - are weak. There is the most corruption here" noted Chavez.

Bolivia inches forward

" Bolivia needs human and industrial capital development," explained Chavez. "Evo Morales only completed secondary school. The indigenous community have very few intellectuals. When they came to this bureaucratic machine lots of politicians of the right-wing tried to impress them. There are people interested in having the same situation as before. They don’t want change. The right-wing they infiltrate in MAS. The indigenous sectors are entering inside the administration but in very low positions of power. Evo started to look for professionals that have commitment to help him."

Trade and Industrialisation

"ALBA - the trade agreement with Venezuela , Cuba , Ecuador and Nicaragua produces 220 million American dollars worth of trade with Bolivia . Trade with America is worth 400 million dollars. Bolivian produce is basic - soya, minerals and other agricultural products. We export gas to Brazil and Argentina . All of Bolivian exports are primary products. We have real problems of industrialisation. Bolivia has always been robbed of its natural resources. Multinationals in Bolivia are Petrobras, Alf and Repsol YPF. Mainly they are exploiting gas. This is because here, our petroleum is very light...not heavy. In the Oriental region there are Columbian and Brazilian companies in the soya business. There is now a plan to separate the gas into each of its components. These two problems of lack of human and industrial capital has included a brain drain from Bolivia . All governments before now, have not been interested in education. Now, we have a lack of education. The question of education will take 100 years to resolve" said Chavez.

Taxes

"The government hasn’t modified the general political taxes. Morales senses there is no support for taxes. When Sanchez - the former president, announced an increase of the taxes, the people rose up against him”, said Chavez. Currently, the people pay 13 percent consumer tax. The only change the government introduced was the petrol tax. In 2003 petrol companies paid $180 million American dollars in tax to the Bolivian government. In 2007 they paid 2000 million dollars. That is not a nationalisation - but a good negotiation. The nationalisation of gas and petrol was not just a straight 83 percent to the Bolivian state. The MAS government also negotiated individual contracts with 44 of these companies. There is not yet a public, government owned hydrocarbon company yet. It is necessary to reconstruct, because it died in 1996. This is a long process - in this - we are 150 years behind Europe " commented Chavez.

Assisting the People

"Government hand-outs like Renta Dignidad (money to older Bolivians) and Juancito Pinto (money to families for children’s schooling) are welcome if they contribute to improving people’s quality of life. Money that before went to corruption now goes to people. But, it mustn’t stay at this level. It must be accompanied with a greater stimulation to education, technical and professional formation. And to the industrialisation of the country. The private sector is a great engine, it generates employment. The government now is pushing micro-enterprises, but they mustn’t forget the other private sectors"

Threats from right-wing

In response to Bolivian Vice-President Alvaro Garcia comments on January 18th 2008 that the political crisis was a media beat-up, Franz Chavez said "I do not agree with the Alvaro Garcia that the right-wing are not a threat. We have seen lots of violence against the President. People are organising for autonomy. However, I think it is a good intention to have discussion with the autonomists. Evo Morales has interpreted how the people are feeling. The people want a discussion with the autonomists. I hope it can concretise because if it fails we will be losing the last hope. If any of the states want to keep their position of autonomy it won’t develop. We are still living the same tension as 2003 and so now, people want to live in peace." Popular Power
"I don’t think there is a process of building leaders from the bases. In 2003 the people saw in front of them a dictator so their collective feeling grew. People of the middle class did human chains. The people don’t support a leadership they support an objective. Today Evo Morales in the middle classes has lowered his popularity" commented Chavez.

Socialism

"There is a Marxist socialist wing in MAS", commented Chavez. In practice, I think, there are not changes that show this country is moving towards socialism. The economic structures are maintained. The economy has been stable, alongside the social conflict. Inflation in 1980 was 25,000%. Bolivian society now moves in other direction. The left parties have not achieved influence within the Bolivian peoples struggle to look for new ways of life."

"Besides the differing ideological thoughts and tendencies the ones who are in the government must do things for the future. They must make Bolivia a country with a future. It is a challenge to build a nation that it is so underdeveloped. If they fail they will leave the doors open to the right wing. It will be a bad example for other countries." concluded Chavez.

Morales´s government fights poverty

On Feburary 1 the Bolivian government introduced "Renta Dignidad" - a pension pàyment for Bolivians over 60 years old. Renta Dignidad will provide 2,400 Bs per month ($315 US) to almost 700,000 Bolivians and will cost between 10 and 11 million American dollars per year. The benefit will be financed, for the most part, with 30% of the recourses from a Direct Tax from the Hydrocarbons (IDH). This money comes direct from the popular nationalisations of gas the Evo Morales government conducted in May 2006.

The Feburary 1 edition of La Razon, quoted the Minister for Rural Development who said, both renta Dignidad and the mass subsidy for schooling él Bono Juancito Pinto "will reduce incidences of poverty in the country from 59.9% to 42.4% until 2015." La Razon also quoted Sacha Llorenti, the viceminister of Co-ordination with the Social Movements who confirmed "the payment of Renta Dignidad is absolutely guareenteed."

To assist with the almighty task of paying people the Administration of Funds, Pensions, provisions BBVA and Future of Bolivia (Las AFP) have opened 10 new offices. Moreover, forty-six financial institutions - private banks, mutual societies, cooperatives, and NGOs - have agreed to help. As well, the armed forces are being located in 200-250 rural areas to assist.

The payment has been opposed by seven out of nine prefects (heads of the regional states). Nornally, the MAS dominated government has support of four out of the nine prefects. Opposition comes from the heads of department who believe the tax from gas nationalisation should go direct to them, not to national projects. In response Sacha Llorenti said renta Dignidad is part of the social revolution which is the face of Evo Morales. "We do not understand why they (these prefects) act in a stingy manner towards people opf the third age. We belive it is an act against solidarity and patriotism to try to impede this payment renta Dignidad."

On Feburary 1 here in Cochabamba activists and government officials were handing out information about the new scheme to great enthusiasm. While some prefects are not supportive, the great majority of Bolivians appreciate anti-poverty measures.

Poem

de Roque Dalton - un companero de El Salvador.

Sobre dolores de cabeza

Es bello ser communista,
aunque cause muchos dolores de cabeza.

Y es que el dolor de cabeza de los comunistas
se supone historico, es decir
que no cede antes las tabletas analgesicas
sino solo ante la realizaction del Paraioso el la tierra
Asi es la cosa.

Bajo el capitalismo nos duele la cabeza
y nos arrancan la cabeza.
En la lucha por la Revolucion la cabeza es una bomba de retardo
En la construccion socialista planificamos el dolor de cabeza
lo cual no lo hace escasear, sino todo lo contrario.

El comunismo sera, entre los otras cosas,
Una asprina del tamano del sol

HEADACHES

It is beautiful to be Communist, although it causes many headaches.
You see communists headaches supposed to be historical, that is to say
They do not stop with tablets but only with the accomplishment of Paradise on Earth
This is the thing.

Under Capitalism when our heads ache they decapitate us.
In the fight for revolution, the head is a time bomb.
In the construction of socialism we plan headaches which does not make them scarce, quite the opposite

Communism will be, among other things, an aspirin as large as the sun

Festivals and Miners

Oruro is Bolivia´s festival capital. We are pre- Carnival mood here in Bolivia. Carnival happens on February 2nd and Bolivia goes crazy. All day and night in the major cities (and some of the minor cities) - groups of people get dressed in amazing devil and other traditional costumbes and dance through the streets. 15-18 hours of a proccesion. With huge walking bands of trombone, trumpet and drum players in front and behind the dancers. Its incredible. Ororo had a pre-run while I was there and it was the most INCREDIBLE cultural event I have seen.

There must have been 50,000 people participating in a 17 hour long proccesion, dancing and playing up a long four hour route to the cities church. At the end of their four hour dance the group would go into the church , get down on their knees and crawl for 10 minutes to get to the front of the church and hear from a Catholic priest. As most instrument players and dancers had been drinking beer solidly through their sun drenched and rain drenched dance fest, they were mostly quite pissed! And tired! And eating coca leaves to stay upright! Amazing! All in ´gods church!´ Quite, quite incredible.

There was one group that commemorated those who lost their lives in the fight against the Spanish. There was a slow moving indigenous group that had two big indigeous banners flying in the air. Beautiful. There was a group of men and women who had used these instruments that were dead amarillos, stuffed with wood to give them inner strength, and stuck on a winding peice of wood. The dancers would swing these dead amarillos around, and a constant beat would come out. Incredible!

I was in awe! Now, as I am in Sucre, a richer city of the Media Luna, the right wing - there have been two mini pre Carnival festivals. One, a group of young people saying dont do drugs, drinking in excess. And no smoking. And use condoms. Pretty cool all up. Wasnt a straight out moralistic message, just not in excess. The state health department had a stall about AIDS and a big diagram on how to have safe sex. Great graphic pictures of penises and condoms. Good stuff! Havent seen anything like it in La Paz. The other little fest was young people going crazy dancing to trombones, trumpets down the main street. All very cool. Sucre´s mayor is pro Media Luna, but the department (state) governor is pro-Morales.

Bolivia, apart from going festival crazy is also experiencing horrid torrencial rains, bought on by La Nina effect. Thanks to global warming at least 5 people have died, hundreds of people are stranded and homeless. Evo Morales has told first world governments they have to cut greenhouse emissions, in response to Bush and co.´s "third world countries have to pull up their socks" for the world to solve the warming crisis.

With a Spanish speaking friend I went to visit a mining town, Huanuni, outside Oruro. We got in an visited the mine and talked to the workers about conditions pre-Morales and conditions now. Lovely!

The basic salary in Bolivia is 550 Bolivanos per month. That is $72 American . Miners receive 5000 bs per month minimum in top sections of the mines (less dangerous). Miners who work in the bottom, more dangerous part of the mine receive $15, 000 bs per month. In the mine we visited 3 people had died at work last year. The amount of miners who are dying is way down from when the mine was in a private, French company, hands.

As I am trying to learn more Spanish I will write a little in it about Che Guevara.

Cuando yo fui a eso pueblito cerca de Oruro yo vi una poster con fotos de Che Guevara a differente partes en su vida. Una foto fue de Che muerte. Muy triste. Pero le cosa bonito sobre eso poster fue el dicho en la fondo de eso poster. Eso es "Si avanzo me sigo. Si paro el empujón mí. Si vuelvo me mato" Creo que es muy hermoso.

Two years of Evo Morales, 500 years of colonialism

This is an article destined for Green Left Weekly.
http://www.greenleft.org.au/

Celebrations of Evo Morales´s two years of presidency took place here in La Paz on Tuesday 22nd January. In typical Bolivian style big rallies blocked the streets, fireworks rang through the air and workers and campesinos met to plan the next steps ahead for Bolivia ´s democratic, indigenous revolution.

The largest rally of the day : 10,000 – 15,000 workers - was led by the federation of Central Workers of Bolivia (COB). Demonstrating the differences that exist within workers within Bolivia, this rally was “against the Morales government”. COB, dominated by militant miners, is calling for the MAS government to provide a basic salary for all Bolivians. At the moment MAS is providing $26US per month to Bolivians over 60 – “Renta Dignidad” who have no fixed, regular income. This is an addition to the assistance provided through the program for school children. “Bono Juancito Pinto” is a $26US yearly cash grant to each child who goes to primary school. 1,321,812 children have benefited from this program.

Workers at the COB rally chanted loudly against Media Luna – the right-wing oligarchy – who - based in Santa Cruz, are calling for autonomy from the less gas rich west of Bolivia. COB has fought hard for the nationalization of the countries resources. Bolivia, historically rich in gold and silver, was mined almost dry by Spanish colonialists. During this prolonged robbery, noted an historian in 1831, Bolivia was like "a beggar seated on a throne of gold."

Under Morales 83% of gas and petrol resources have been nationalized. Within two years the state has received almost three and a half million US dollars from its program to take back the countries wealth. With this money from nationalizations, the government has provided Renta Dignidad and Bono Juancito Pinto.

An indigenous rally weaved its way past COBs rally into the centre of La Paz´s morning bustle. In contrast, the campesinos supported Morales and MAS. Two thousand campesinos from within the state of La Paz rallied, then met to talk about their collectives, production and the new constitution. Within two years – in a “Agrarian Revolution” the Morales leadership has transferred 10,000 hectares of idle land to poor, landless peasants based in collectives. The proposed constitution will solidify this move and outlaw any holdings over 10,000. Theoretically, idle land will be confiscated and handed over to poor campesinos.

In the late afternoon one thousand health and education workers rallied through La Paz taking many people to Plaza Murillo, where Congress meets. A chant “Evo, hermano, el pueblo estan contigo” (Evo, brother, the people are with you) kept in time with traditional drum rhythms. A national program to combat illiteracy, developed in Cuba, “Yes, I am able” has assisted 453,935 people in overcoming illiteracy. Assisted by Cuban doctors a program titled Universal Secure Health for all has attempted to provide free health care to all Bolivians. Mission Miracle, a program to eliminate blindness caused by malnutrition has helped 215,000 people with their sight.

Poverty is shockingly apparent in La Paz. Indigenous women and children sleep in the streets. Running water is a privilege. Houses half built, precariously withstanding rain and wind with sticks from trees to hold their half erect forms. To combat homelessness, the government implemented a Plan of Social and Secure Living which has built, modified and bought 9,000 homes in rural and urban areas. To generate more economic growth Morales outputted almost four million dollars to 2,754 individuals and collectives.

The day to celebrate Evo Morales´s second year anniversary as Bolivia´s first indigenous president ended with Morales giving a five hour speech detailing the last two years and charting the way ahead. Morales said he will accelerate the program of structural transformation and the “decolonization” of the State with the help of a National Commission for Change, which will out-rank the cabinet of ministers and will not necessarily be made up of Movement Toward Socialism (Movimiento al Socialismo, MAS) party activists. One of its first measures will be the reversion and expropriation of lands controlled by ranchers who enslave the indigenous of the Chaco region of Bolivia. Although it seems unbelievable, to speak with one of the indigenous in Chaco region, individuals one must ask permission from their boss.

Morales said in his speech “This revolution is a peaceful, democratic, cultural and indigenous one. The Bolivian people have taken up the challenge of decolonization and therefore foreign nations will never again be able to impose their will.

Meeting Evo Morales in the rain

There was a mass political fest here in La Paz yesterday to commemorate Morales s 2nd year as president. It was a grand 14 hours of militant mass movement mayhem which started at 10am with a rally of miners and finished with glimpsing Morales through freezing rain at 12pm.

The miners, and other workers, came from all over Bolivia to protest "against Morales and the MAS leadership" for a basic salary for all Bolivians. Morales and MAS have just introduced a "salario dignidad" which is for those 60 and over without a job. Its not much but it will help the poor of Bolivia heaps. Anyways the COB - Central Workers of Bolivia Federation (made up of these militant workers) thinks Morales is not moving fast enough. The rally was really big. 10,000 to 15,000 women and men. Lots of banners declaring which organisation they were from. And loud. Bit scary due to the fireworks going off all OVER the rally. There were a few that were very bomb like. The police drove by at one stage and it was great to see the miners give them heaps. Think the miners have come a crop of the cops before! Huh!

Morales said when he was inaugurated 2 years ago that he was placed into presidency by the social movements, was accountable to them and would take his lead from them. Needless to say, COB are very much independent from the MAS leadership and are playing an important role. I think, however, that overall the Morales leadership is moving as fast as it can within the constraints that they have given. 500 years of Spanish robbery and 100 or so of American cant be fixed over night.

Franz Chavez, journo here, was saying that while Morales and co have nationalised 83% of the gas here...it has been hard guareenteeing the payment from that gas nationalisation. He also said there is virtually NO tax against the rich here. Some companies pay tax here...but he was saying not all. Within this...its hard for MAS.

Then ran into a campesino rally of 2000 or so and went to their meeting which was all in Quechoa, an indigenous language. Then went to a COB meeting. Then ran into another rally led by the health and education department which was really great...chanting, music. The particiupants were friendly which was a bit of a change from the indigenous rally where I copped a bit of gringo bashing! I gave as good as I got "Soy contigo companeros. Soy activista de Australia". I am with you comrades - I am an activist from Australia. Participants at the health and education rally were very friendly with an older woman making me watch out for pickpokets and getting the correct change for me. Nice! And we danced to some funky drums while marching. Yah!

Then we hung outside the Congress, waved at Evo Morales s back as he went into to Congress to give a 6 hour address about the last two years. A radio transmitted the entire 6 hours to the 500 - 1000 of us that were there. It started to rain though which was a bit crap. A nearby cafe housed the refugees and had Morales on TV. Phew! There, we watched him. Was great. After he had finished we went outside to say hello. About 200 hardcore supporters were there , many lefty Argentinians! And out he came! Yah! and we waved, shouted and acted like teenagers at a rock concert. Then we yelled "Evo...Evo..." outside his bedroom (cant know that for sure:) window for an hour with others and went happily home! Yehup!

Great day. More on his speech soon.

Communist Party Bolivia

Dont seem to be in Morales ´s Party MAS. They had an anniversary fiesta of about 150 people. Small, cramped room, lots of people which was great. Speeches. Not many youth. The Bolivian Party is Moaist & Marxist Lenininst. Strangley they gave ´greetings´to China, as well as Cuba and Venezuela. They also put Argentina in the same progressive camp as Cuba, Venezuala, Nicuragua and Boliva. Which my Argentinian activist didnt appreciate. Great rendition on the Internationale in Spanish. Trying to add video footage. OK it aint working. Here is a photo instead.

New constitution sparks right-wing revolt

This first appeared in Green Left Weekly
http://www.greenleft.org.au/2008/736/38118

Bolivia: New constitution sparks right-wing revolt

Rachel Evans,
La Paz
18 January 2008

In December, after 16 months of wrangling, the elected delegates to the constituent assembly finally passed a draft constitution that will be put to a national referendum sometime before September.

A new constitution to re-found the country in order to include the indigenous majority subjected to 500 years of racial oppression has been a key demand of Bolivia’s powerful social movements. Evo Morales, Bolivia’s first indigenous president, was elected in December 2005 promising to convoke an assembly. The draft constitution recognises the rights of the indigenous peoples and guarantees state control over natural resources, among other progressive changes — including protection for gays and lesbians from discrimination.

After the constitution was passed, right-wing forces backed by the Bolivian oligarchy led a violent campaign that saw four people killed in Sucre. The main right-wing opposition party, Podemos, boycotted the final assembly session, allowing delegates from the Movement Towards Socialism (MAS) — Morales’ party — and allies to pass the draft with the two thirds majority required.

Opposition groups — backed by US imperialism — have refused to recognise the draft as legitimate. In retaliation the oligarchy based in the “media luna” (“half moon” — the four departments [states] in the east of the country home to much of Bolivia’s natural resources) have launched plans to hold referendums to declare “autonomy” from the Bolivian state.

Polarisation

The resource-rich eastern states are the main base of the racist white elite, with the predominantly indigenous, poorer, western departments being main base of support for Morales. The push for autonomy is a move aimed at securing control over gas reserves and land. In an article posted on the Bolivia Rising blog on December 30, Bengamin Dangel explained that the autonomy plans for the eastern department of Santa Cruz includes refusing to send two thirds of all oil and gas revenue to the central government. A separate proposed article on land reform for the new constitution will also be put to referendum and if passed will allow the government to redistrute large amounts of idle land to landless campesinos (peasants).

Key figures in the opposition are also major landowners. On December 15 the largest demonstrations of the autonomistas took place in Santa Cruz, rallying against land reform plans. With the government declaring the plans for autonomy illegal and the oligarchy arguing the same about the draft constitution, the country is potentially on a dangerous collision course. Last year saw a series of mobilisations and counter-mobilisations by opponents and supporters of the process of change, many of which were marred by violence.

The right-wing mobilised fascist gangs in Sucre to attempt to stop the constitutional assembly from proceeding. The private media, viciously anti-Morales, has run a racist campaign to undermine the government, including presenting Morales as a puppet of Venezuelan President Hugo Chavez. In an attempt to break the deadlock, Morales has announced referendums to be held sometime this year on whether or not he, his vice president and all nine department governors should stay in office.

Despite the destabilisation campaign, Morales remains popular with an approval rating of 56% according to Dangel.

Murderous oligarchy

However, indigenous blood is being more readily spilt by an increasingly frustrated opposition. The latest battle has centred on the government’s creation of the “Dignity Pension” for elderly Bolivians, who have never had access to a pension before — a significant gain for the 37% of Bolivians who live in extreme poverty. The new pension is being paid for by gas revenue redirected from the departments, and therefore is opposed by the “media luna” governments.

Morales has met with the eastern state leaders in pursuit of unity. A January 10 Inter Press Service article by Franz Chavez explained: “Morales opened the meeting with a report on his first two years in office, presenting results that would have been the envy of his predecessors. He pointed out that despite the social unrest … of 2007, GDP grew 4.2 percent … He also promised that public investment, which totalled 500 million dollars in 2005, would increase to [US[ 1.3 billion dollars in 2008.”

The initial meeting resolved to set up a commission, aiming to “reach agreements on issues like national unity, the cuts in the provincial governments’ budgets, the different kinds of autonomy, the defence of democracy, the state’s role in the economy, and the process of social change promoted by the government”.

Dignity and sovereignty

On January 14, an activist centre in my local area in La Paz held a meeting with two MAS leaders, Cynthia Cisneros and Juan Carlos, who explained the changes and argued for activists to promote them. Cisneros argued that capitalism is being challenged by the power of the social movements. She spoke about revolution being necessary while Bolivian children have to work on the streets to survive. According to the National Statistics Institute, 67% of Bolivia’s 9.6 million people live in poverty, and 37% in extreme poverty. Carlos argued that “the constitution is transitional. It is not socialist or communist but a liberal constitution. It is anti-colonial.” He explained that if the constitution is adopted, the poor will remain poor, and the main structures of domination will remain, however the new constitution can open the road to change.

Rallies pepper La Paz’s streets daily — demanding change in a range of areas. Radio programs are full of discussion about socialism, and news about the revolution in Venezuela is a major feature. As the mass movement of Bolivia’s oppressed gears up for the next steps in deepening democracy and social justice, we can be sure the right-wing will be on the offensive to prevent change.

El Alto - the poor of La Paz

Lefty journalist Franz Chavez took myself, an activist from France and a Bolivian who resided in the southern most state of the country to El Alto - Bolivia upper most city. Its really high up. 3500 kms. Rent is cheaper in El Alto so many of Bolivias poor (indigenous) live there and commute down the thin winding road to La Paz each day. A main road in El Alto took us down the city. The main road has pot holes and either side of this large thoroughfare lay small mechanic shops, some dirt futbol playing feilds, a marchet, small cafes. Buidlings were half constructed of this basic red brick material. Some of the buildings that looked as if work was still being done had tree branchs holding sections of the unfinished sections. Looked scary to work on.

Smaller roads off the main drag were half flooded with water, and mostly comprised of dirt. No car was able to go down there. El Alto is stronghold of MAS and people here know how to fight. The led the largest rally in Bolivia - 2 million people - against the dictatorship Sanchez...I think in 2003. They dont have enough clean water, their public schools need more funding and they need electricity. The Spanish, the US, the World Bank have bled Bolivia - rich in gold, silver, wool - dry. It is only now with the Morales government that the people are beginning to see some of the benefits of their countries natural wealth. This time around...the money is coming from gas.
Bolivia, whose economy has grown since Morales, is still Latin America´s second poorest country - second only to desperate Haiti. Taxes against companies exist here but are hard to enforce. Taxes against rich families are almost non-existant.

How the people in El Alto - and in Bolivia´s underresources countryside - will be able to have houses with running water, functional electricity, a properly funded school for their kids will be determined by the success of the struggle unfolding here against the countries oligarchy.

Photo file

http://www.flickr.com/photos/22889516@N07/

Catholics for the Right to Decide

Interveiwed Paulo Bustillos from a liberation theology wing of the Catholic Church yesterday. They have posters denouncing the church hierarchy for their anti-condom policies. They´re also leading the campaign here for womens reproductive freedom. They are supprting GLBT (as they describe it here) rallies and marches and have a range of professional, glossy publications that are distributed all over Latin America.

Their mags look at which countries have introduced same-sex marriage, the philosophical limitations of the Church hierarchy, violence towards women, abortion and so on. They rallied outside the Mexican ambassy recently against that governments inaction over the hundreds of women who have been murdered in the region close to the Mexican-US border. They go to all the womens rights and GLBT rights rallies.

The Catholics office was really swanky, they are well supported by some section of the church and they have a range of very lovely activists working for them. They helped lead this campaign for a sexual freedoms article in 2004 which was originally passed. It had anti-homophobia components and reproductive freedoms contained within. It was originally passed under Mesa, the president pre-Morales who fled after trying to privitise everything and failing. The Christian right organised massive marches against it (including forcing their school students to come out against it) and the former government revoked it. But not before being forced to hold meetings all over the country to redebate the article.

Within these meetings the most articulate young women, men, and older women who had had illegal abortions and went through hell, spoke and defended the changes. One young homosexual boy got up, outed himself then called on people to support the reproductive freedoms component because his mother supported him throughout him coming out...and without her...he would not be here. Older indigenous women wrinkled with age and hardship, crying through releying their experience of illegal abortion and how it should not happen again. Great stuff. The Church produced a DVD about the campaign in English which they gave me.

Mujeres Creando do performance political stuff in the middle of La Paz about body image, indigeous pride, countering homophobia. Their stuff is really provocative and brave. The one thing that struck me was the complete freedom they have to spread red paint representing blood all over the mall of La Paz, use a loud megaphone and sound system and not have any hassles. They got no abuse from the public in the DVD I saw. This is a result of the large democratic space that has been opened up with the strong movements and Morales´s election. They did this lesbian kiss in at the end of this one performance with two women lying down in a ´bed´. Interveiws with onlookers after ranged from ´immoral´ and ábomination´from older Bolivians and some really articulate, thought through opinions about human rights, democracy and justice. The political level in this country is high.

Oh, the christian right are very strong here- and are based very firmly in the richer Media Luna states. The proposed new constitution has some concessions within it to them. But it has an all important Article 14 which says no discrimination against person due to their sex, sexual orientation, indigenous heritage and guarantees womens reproductive control (without legalising abortion).

Off to El Alto to meet some militants. Franz Chavez, an amazing left wing Bolivian journalist is going to take 5 of us around.

Here is a kikass article about abortion rights in Bolivia first seen on Bolivia Rising.
_______________________________

Bolivia's 'Bad Births' Sit on Political Sidelines

Jean Friedman Rudovsky, WeNews correspondent

The leftist trend in Latin America is going hand in hand with a reversal of abortion rights. In anti-corporate Bolivia, for instance, a push last month to constitutionally broaden a ban was blocked only at the last minute.

La Paz Bolivia (WOMENSENEWS)--Bolivia's 255-delegate Constituent Assembly under President Evo Morales--the country's first indigenous leader and widely considered one of the region's most leftist heads of state--last month narrowly avoided adding a ban on all abortion to its new constitution, regardless of the dangers to a woman's life.
Surprise? Not in Latin America.

While abortion rights may be a rough dividing line between left and right in the United States, progressive party rule here is no ticket to pro-choice advancement in this region.

In the past two years, Nicaragua's government of former revolutionary Sandinistas has banned all abortions. The president of Uruguay--leader of his country's historic left-wing party--has vowed to veto parliamentary attempts to legalize abortion. And Venezuelans' push to decriminalize the procedure has come to a virtual halt under socialist President Hugo Chavez.

Here in Bolivia the recent abortion controversy revolved around five words--"from the moment of conception"--which were to follow the text's guarantee to the right to life.

The phrase would have effectively outlawed all abortion in Bolivia, a major change for the country. The country is drafting a new constitution to give Bolivia's historically marginalized poor and indigenous majority a chance to help create a new foundational text.

Technically, abortion here was legalized in 1973 for victims of sexual assault or to prevent a life-threatening pregnancy. In practice, however, abortions are often performed without any legal inspection and the country has never seen an abortion provider prosecuted.

Bolivia has one of the highest abortion rates in the world: up to 80,000 procedures annually in a country of only 9 million people, according to the United Nations.

Prohibitive Expense

Many are relatively safe procedures performed in more than a dozen clinics around the country. But the average $150 fee is prohibitive for most in South America's poorest nation, so many look for alternative methods.

"First, I tried vaginal inserts," says one Bolivian woman, referring to a widely available ulcer drug that has become a popular do-it-yourself abortion option because of the medicine's side effects. "When that didn't work I found someone to do it for $30. I passed out during it and when I woke up, I was bloody and he was gone."

She was relatively lucky; at least one woman a day here ends up dead in this type of swallow-hard-and-take-the-risk medical care.

Despite the high number of deaths, talking about abortion remains taboo here in Bolivia.

Catholicism, the constitutionally established official religion, helps explain that. In Catholic schools, children are required to watch a video of a womb undergoing an abortion. It was church authorities who brought the conception clause to Constituent Assembly delegates when the body first began its proceedings.
Anti-abortion sentiment is widespread in secular life as well, says Claudia Lopez, a 31-year-old pro-choicer in Cochabamba. "Regardless of religion, we learn that conception isn't an option, it's our function," she says. "Women who abort live with a lifetime of guilt."

Entrenched Resistance

Major newspapers run pictures of a thumb-size fetus in a glass jar alongside articles about abortion. Staff in medical clinics often try to dissuade their patients from having abortions, telling them it is better to choose life than murder, say interviewees.

Meanwhile leftist indigenous women--who have been key players in Bolivia's recent political battles--have, for the most part, steered clear of the issue.
Paul Bustillos, political director for La Paz-based Catholics for the Right to Choose, says that's because pro-choice leaders have not engaged the country's indigenous majority.

"Here, the women's movement is known as a middle- or upper-class, white and often foreigner-led phenomenon," says Bustillos.

An indication of this disconnect: Many abortions are performed in rural areas where indigenous people predominate, yet the procedures are not referred to by their clinical name. Instead of "abortions" they are called "bad births" and are followed by cleansing rituals.

Balky Assembly

In the end, Morales' ruling Movement Towards Socialism party blocked the conception clause from the final text of the constitution, which still must be approved by national vote later this year. But it was like pulling teeth, say sources in the assembly, where about 1 in 4 delegates is female.

Bustillos says Catholics for the Right to Choose went into a "state of emergency" when the conception clause was introduced. Staff and volunteers distributed educational materials, led workshops and implored delegates not to doom their daughters and granddaughters to unwanted or risky pregnancies.

A key point, Bustillos says, was telling delegates that Bolivia's new constitution should enhance existing rights and not take them away.

Pro-choice advocates here know that in Latin America, a region that counts over 4 million abortions each year and up to 10,000 resulting deaths, Bolivia's resistance is not likely to dissolve any time soon.

"It's not that they don't understand, because inevitably they've all had a loved one go through this," says a Bolivian woman who recently had an abortion, referring to the region's new political leadership. "It's about the strong societal force pushing against acceptability. And overcoming that is going to take more than a few years of left-wing governments."

Jean Friedman-Rudovsky is the correspondent for Time magazine in Bolivia and is a founding editor of Ukhampacha Bolivia, www.ubnoticias.org/es, a bilingual online journal on Bolivian and Latin American politics.
First published at Women’s eNews

Street Kids in La Paz

Have their own unions and newspapers. Very cool. I donated $10 US to this group of articulate young boys who told me of their troubles. Street kids become shoe shiners and get about .010 cents Australian every shine. They become street kids cos their parents cant support them or wont support them. They become street kids cos of violence in their homes. The shoe shiners mostly all wear masks around their heads so as not to be recognised by cops or family. This makes them look rather scary. I presume they engage in a little redistribution of wealth in slightly illegal manners as well. To get by. The unionists I met in Plaza del Estudiantes were top notch. Great kids. Intelligent. Engaged and engaging. Bored. They hang in the one place for 12 hours in a day.

Morales introduced a school assistance program, to help poor families send kids to school. For primary and secondary school. But these kids cant do school and work at the same time. Their accomodation would cost (if they could afford) $200Bs - $30 Aust per month. Eating per month would be another $200 Bs per month. Morales is building more public houses for the poor, and the pension for older people he is introducing will help enormously.

One of the oldest of the kids talked eloquently about Ecuador politics, the FSLN in Nicuragua, Chaves. Pretty switched on. The street kids- shoe shiners organised a rally here to demand the right for childern to work within the new constitution. They want to right to work enshrined. Its pretty hard. Cos its child labor, they should be in school. But they are poor and they have very few options. They asked me to talk to Evo Morales about their conditions. I said I would. :)

I met with GLBT groups yesterday and some youth cultural groups. Both pretty cool. Staying at Mujeres Creando - an anarchist feminist group who do sex work organising and abortion rights campaigning. Their groups graffetti is the most prominent of all groups in La Paz.

Insomnia is a side-effect of altitude sickness. As is throwing up. As I have been experiencing both I am off to Cochabamba - a political city lower down the mountain.

Contitutional changes debated in La Paz

Went to a top notch meeting with two MAS (Evos Party) leaders who said the upcoming constitutional proposals are anti-colonial. That they are opening up the democratic space. Heaps of debate from the floor - some ultra lefties arguing the Constitution was useless, what was needed was tearing down all the superstuctures. A post-modernist joined the fray arguing there was no need to think about-include the middle classes cos they dont exist. Its all just social sectors as one. The MAS leader said the middle classes will join the process when they see it working. Golly. Fasctinating.

Debate about moves in a revolutionary proccess that is sustaining significant fire from the racist right wing. How to move forward. There was mention of the failed Venezuela referendum.

A woman came up after and invited me to speak to a group of youth about Australia and the youth movements. I am meeting with gay and lesbian groups on Monday too. Phew! Things are finally rolling. I was wondering if I would be forever a tourist buying cheap political wares.

lv n beams from the revolution!

Women´s groups & rallies

Ran into 2 rallies today. One 300 strong. Indigenous artists protesting the mayors rezoning of La Paz to make it really difficult for them to sell their wares. The local government is building public housing in a bustling La Paz central street. The indigenous artist syndicalist liked public housing but wanted another area where thet are guareenteed a bustling trade. Minimum wage in Bolivia is 200 Bs ($30 Aus) per week. An artisan can get as low as $100 Bs in a week selling goods from the side of the road.

The protest wound its way through the main thoroughfare of La Paz with no hastle from the cops.

The other rally was also indigneous dominated and located 2 minutes from the other rally! A group of workers have been fighting for 10 years against Mercantil Santa Cruz to reclaim money and jobs. The bank bankrolled a factory where all these people worked and then when company went bust - workers lost everything.

Bolivian rallies are like those in Australia. Megaphones with people giving impassioned speeches. Banners and placards. However they have more fireworks here. Which sound like gunfire. Which made me jump!

The cops just looked on. One smiled at me, non-patronisingly. I had a Che t-shirt on and a hat with the indigenous flag on it. The protesters were great - communicative and happy for their struggle to be broadcast. Met a lefty Chilean taking photos. He said "We must thank Evo Morales for these changes". Indeed!

Great article by Franz Chávez on Bolivia Rising summerising the situation for Morales with the 5 rich Eastern states wanting autonomy. Here tis.
http://boliviarising.blogspot.com/

Gay, lesbians, trans in Bolivia

Found a great website with lots of interesting queer Bolivia posts. http://www.globalgayz.com/bolivia-news.html




Brian Cave did not leave any contact details on his site - but his article was well researched and intriguing. The url I have added is BBC pictures of trans activists in Bolivia. Fascinating.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/shared/spl/hi/picture_gallery/05/americas_bolivia_gay_pride/html/1.stm




By Brian Cave, New York CityMarch 30, 2005


Reflections of a Gay Seminarian following his visit to Bolivia.


Bolivia is the poorest nation in South America. The country is a landlocked country made up of 1,098580 square miles and has a population of 9 million people. 85% of the people of Bolivia are natives where as the other 15% are European (principally Spanish). 51% of the population is women and 41% of those women are under the age of 15. 72% of the people of Bolivia are able to get water but not in their homes. Only 3% of the population has water in their homes. 32% of the homes in Bolivia have dirt floors. Currently the country is a democratic capitalist nation but has had many coups in the past. The current constitution had no input from any of the natives of Bolivia. 97% of the people were not included in the decision making process. Currently the natives are working to get their culture incorporated into a new constitution. 64% of Bolivia’s budget goes towards military defense, which the USA is very involved with.


However, currently the majority of the people of Bolivia want a Democratic Socialist nation. If the presidential elections were held today Evo Morales would win. He is the leader of the Movement For Socialism party. Currently there is a chance that there might be a new election before 2007. According to a report from CNN the current president Carlos Mesa has offered his resignation to Congress after widespread protests that were blocking the country. According to the NY Times, there could be a new election as early as August. One of the major issues pressing in Bolivia right now is natural gas. There has been recent protest by the people of Bolivia by blocking the streets and shutting down the country in order that the government change policies regarding the ownership and taxes surrounding gas. There is currently a bill that has been passed by Bolivia’s lower house to change the tax rate for the gas companies to 50% of profits and now waiting to be approved by the Senate.




Dr. Raul Perez, MD was our group doctor and one of our lectures. He introduced us to issues surrounding gas on Bolivia. He received his medical degree in 1995 from Universidad Mayor de San Andres as well as a degree in Inmunohematology in 2002 from the Bolivia Blood Bank, and in 2002 a degree in Hematalogy in Valencia, Spain. He also has a degree in gas and does continuing research. According to Dr. Perez, there is 54 trillion cubic feet of natural gas in Bolivia. 49% of the land has petroleum and 46% of the petroleum is gas. There is enough gas to financially take care of all the people of Bolivia. However, the gas belongs to transnational corporations and they currently only pay 18% tax of profits from the gas to Bolivia, which very little of it trickles down to the people of Bolivia. According to a report from the International Socialist Organization on March 8, 2003, the companies that exploit the gas reserves are BP, Shell, British Gas, France’s TotalFineElf, and Spain’s Repsol. According to a report from Madison Energy Advisors (a transaction advisor for oil and gas sales) on March 23, 2005, Repsol in partnership with the Brazil company Petrobras supply 70% of the natural gas sold to Brazil. Repsol is quoted in the report as saying that if the bill is passed, “it would oblige us to abandon many of our projects and everybody would lose, especially Bolivia. It would also be necessary to reconsider new investments that we have earmarked for the next few years.”The government’s measures to privatize the gas industry have left over 60% of Bolivia’s 9 million people living on less than $2 a day.




Currently 7 million people in Bolivia do not have any kind of health insurance. So it obvious that the gas companies are trying to bully the people of Bolivia by making them think they will be poor if they approve the new tax when many of the people of Bolivia are already living in poverty. Our group saw first hand the poverty in Bolivia. In the evenings we would see families rummaging through large piles of garbage looking for food and anything else that might have some kind of value. El Alto is a very poor town right outside of La Paz and is the main passage way into and out of La Paz. There is no way to get to La Paz without driving through this community and seeing the poverty.


Gays in Bolivia



Another issue I researched while in Bolivia was the gay, lesbian, bisexual, and transgender community. I did research before I went to Bolivia to make contacts and find out where the GLBT people met and interacted but I could not find any information. Even once I got to Bolivia I still could not find any signs of GLBT life.


So we decided that we would go look for transgender prostitutes in the red light district and interview them. Prostitution is legal in Bolivia, but you have to be registered with the health department and get tested every three months for sexually transmitted diseases. We were privileged enough to meet Romina. She was wealth of information to us and even invited us to come to her home the next day to continue talking with her. She was about 5’7” while wearing heals and claimed most of her clients are married men. Romina is also part of a group of transvestites that meet every Friday for a Bible Study. Romina gave us information about David Aruquipa Perez who has a Master in Gender Studies and who is the coordinator for The Galan Family. The Galan Family is a volunteer group of 50 men and one woman that integrate theater, photography, and film to educate the people of Bolivia around issues of sexuality and gender. Most members of the group have Master level degrees and are working professionals. The group works to create a space with drag queen performances to start dialogue on sexuality in this very Catholic Nation.

So between the Catholics and the Indigenous people LGBT rights were not voted for in the government. However, the group is continuing to work on getting GLBT issues in the constitution. Some of the members recently were able to meet with the President of Bolivia and talk with him. The group also has a weekly radio show in La Paz on Tuesday nights on 101.7FM called Trans Stage. The group also has started a gay pride march that takes place on the last Saturday of June. In 1995 when they had their first public parade they were arrested. In 2004 they had 300 people march in the parade. The gay community does not get any support from the churches and even go as far to not welcome GLBT people in the church. The group is working on getting its website http://www.globalgayz.com/www.familiagalanbolivia.comup and running soon. Being gay in Bolivia is still a very taboo thing. Most of the GLBT people are very closeted. According to a report from the website GlobalGayz.com there is no legal prohibition against homosexuality; however, the police are woefully underpaid and target GLBT people with illicit fines. With Bolivia being a predominately Catholic nation, it means most of the community looks down upon birth control and contraception. Therefore; there is not much education regarding condom use and that also means greater risk for the spread of sexually transmitted diseases. According to a report from the Joint United Nations Program on HIV/AIDS, there were 11,000 document cases of HIV/AIDS at the end of 2003.

In January 2005, according to Dr. Perez who we met in Bolivia, there are 25,000 documented cases of HIV/AIDS. Dr. Perez said that only the symptoms of HIV/AIDS is treated and not the disease itself in Bolivia. He also stated the most of those infected were infected while visiting the United States and Brazil. According to the U.S. Agency for International Development, HIV/AIDS has remained low with the female commercial sex workers because they are required to be registered and must be tested every three months to keep their health certificates. Christianity and CapitalismMy experience with Bolivia has made me question whether Christianity and Capitalism are compatible. Christian Smith in his book Moral, Believing Animals:Human Personhood and Culture made a statement that has stuck with me. He said that there is danger in the “invisibleness” of some of presuppositions and beliefs we hold that are linked to our “liberal democratic capitalist…ontology culture” (Smith, 60) Smith also talks about how as moral believing creatures that all beliefs are not the same. When I read the Gospels and see what Jesus was teaching, I believe most of teachings are not compatible at all with capitalist practices. The fact that Jesus in the book of Mark tells the rich man that he has to sell everything to get into the kingdom of heaven is one example that shows me that the monetary greed that comes from capitalism and free markets is in contradiction to Jesus.
So, if the United States wants to be a Christian Nation then the United States must no longer be a democratic capitalist nation and should not be forcing other countries to become democratic capitalist nations. This idea that all countries need to be like the United States of America is our invisible presupposition that is dangerous as Smith talks about. Democratic capitalism does not work for everyone. The people of Bolivia want a democratic socialist nation so that all the people will have equal access to the necessities of life. The people of Bolivia want and can take care of themselves if they have access to the gas that democratic capitalist nations like the United States have taken over and rob the Bolivian people of their basic rights.


BIBLIOGRAPHY=Ammon, Richard. Gay Varieties in Bolivia [Internet]. GlobalGayz.com, 2003, 1999 [cited March 28 2005]. Available from http://www.globalgayz.com/g-bolivia.html.=Bolivia Gas Plans Trigger Unrest, 2003. Available from http://news.bbc.co.uk/go/pr/fr/-/1/hi/world/americas/3112272.stm.=Forero, Juan. "Bolivian Chief Is Proposing New Elections in August." New York Times, March 16, 2005 2005.=HIV/AIDS, Joint United Nations Programme on. "Bolivia." 2004.=Kann, Andrew Dean Nystrom & Morgan. Lonely Planet. 5 ed, Lonely Planet Travel Guide Series: Lonely Planet Publications, April 2004.=Organization, International Socialist. "Uprising Rocks Bolivia." Socialist Worker, March 2003 2003, 1.=Smith, Christian. Moral, Believing Animals. New York City: Oxford University Press, 2003.=Wertheim. "Brazil Warns against Bolivian Legislation." edited by Madison Energy Advisors: Pennwell Corporation, 2005.

Made it to La Paz!

Long trip to get here. If only airlines flew direct!

Had to descend to New Zealand where the duty free shop looked exactly like the duty free shop in Sydney. I learnt to apply perfumes for free in New Zealand. Smelled great on the way to Santiago where by some twsit of fate I was granted 3 seats up the back! Three!

Curled up and slept till we got to Santiago 5 hours late.
Lots of lines to show ur passport thru.

Chile is real dry. On way from the airport scenery corroberated this. Dry yellow hills with stocky, small green trees contrasting the tawny grass. Mountains surround Santiago. Small brick houses met us as we flew down the very swanky highway. A brown river seperated the highway to and from the airport. A few slum shacks next to the river. Reminded of Mike Davis´s "Planet of Slums" as this woman looked out at us from her minimal wooden shack on the dirty river. Plastic bags and mangy dogs. The Chilean bus driver said "iqual, es iqual" when I asked if newly president elect Michelle Batcharett had bought positive changes to the people. Meaning same- same.

Horses hanging around some housing clusters. Gorgeous old buildings. Spanish colonialists came down from Peru in 1525 to steal gold. They didn´t find gold or silver but Santiago´s soil was rich in minerals due to the indigenous people´s centuaries policy of slash and burn. The invasion of Chile began in earnest in 1540 - was carried out by Pedro de Valdivia who founded Santiago in Feb 1541. They stole the land and killed the indigenousl. They built beautiful old architecture with slave labor. Old street lamps that reminded me of scenes from The Lion the Witch and the Wardrobe. That was Santiago.

La Paz is ogglingly beautiful. Breathtaking. We came down the hill from Al Alto ' where La Paz´s airport is situated. Mountains kissed by lazy clouds. Languorous white clouds meet thousands of red bricked houses. Up and a mountaneous ravines. Billboards of Evo Morales greeted us. They are campaigning for soccer to be held in La Paz. Posters greeted us of that. Indigenous women with their bowlers hats. And distinctly woven brightly coloured shawls. "Two million people live in La Paz and El Alto" said our taxi driver. "They all support Evo Morales". A Bolivian journalist student in the plane who lives in indigenous Cochabama said support amongst young people for Morales is drawn on a class basis. "The poor and indigenous support Morales and the rich whities in the richer 5 eastern states don´t." Private universities, like those in Venezuela, are home to racist pro-American youth, she commented. "We had 50-60% illiteracy here before Morales. Now it is down to 20-30%".

"There is private and public education here" said our taxi driver. "The private is better, still, but since Evo Morales began his campaign for education it is getting better fot the poor."

Met a Brazilian guy on the plane, who is a lefty student doctor in Sao Paulo. We are sharing a room with a few beds up in a cheap motel near the centre of town. He rolled around today and ran into a rally with lots of indigenous women. Raining scattered the crowd before he could find out why they were rallying. The plaza where they were is surrounded by the presidential residencey - where Morales is supposed to be sleeping!!! and by the state parliament. I may get to say ello to Morales yet.

The Brazilians portugese is bleeding odd. It reminds me of German - they get gutteral. Then it sounds French. A Finnish guy we had dinner had said portugese reminds him of Russian. He can speak bad English and seems to understand bad Spanish. We´re managing to get on. Its cold. Will have to buy clothes which are not for summer. I read Lonely Planet before coming. It just didn´t sink in.

Am getting in touch with some gay and lesbian groups and some feminist groups. MAS - Morales´s party has an office. Will go there. Really want to get to a rally. Think they are on all the time so that wont be too hard. A gay and lesbian posting on the proposed constitution changes said there was a stipulation that marriage was between a man and a woman - outlawing same-sex marriage. 15 groups are talking to the government- waging protests according to this report I read. The reporter was pro-Morales. Will find out more!!

Many graffettio - pro-Evo - around La Paz. Not to same extent as Venezuala´s but good to see. There are soldiers in the streets of La Paz = the military is for most part = pro Morales. They are near the banks. I feel quite safe at night here. A couple of women said its safe to wander around. Just dont be overt with flashing cameras around. There is still poverty. Indigenous people begging on streets. Just very impressionistically - there were about the same amount that I see around Sydney Central station. The recent pension plan that Morales has instituted will help - older Bolivians get money each week from proceeds of nationalised gas. Not oddles but will help.

Evo Morales once said "I don't mind being a permanent nightmare for the United States.”
Lets all strive to be this!